Stacy Allison says mountains areclimbed the world′s most famous mountain, now she′s helping organizations across the globe scale their own monumental challenges.
Stacy brings a vast range of experiences and knowledge to her energetic and dynamic presentations. And she is best known as the First American woman to summit Mt.
She is also president of Stacy Allison General Contracting, a residential building company.
She serves on the Board of Trustees of National University and is the Chairperson for The Oregon Lung Association′s fundraiser, Reach the Summit.
Remarkably, she is also a successful author and committed mother of two.
At the age of 21, Stacy began major alpine climbing in earnest and achieved rapid success. Within a year, Stacy reached the top of Alaska’s Mt.
McKinley, the highest point in North America, and was part of the first successful women’s ascent of Ama Dablam, the 22,495 foot peak known as Nepal’s Matterhorn.
These accomplishments provided the groundwork for much greater accomplishments.
Allison was the first American woman to top Pik Communism, at 24,600 feet, the tallest peak in the Russian Pamir Range.
“Rock-climbing is like ballet on a vertical plane,” she says. “Each movement is controlled, very deliberate. You have to conserve energy.
It’s very graceful. I enjoyed the control I had to have not only over my body but over my mind–learning how to relax my mind under real stressful situations.”
Completely hooked, she dropped out of Oregon State University to devote more time to her new-found passion.
Mastering mountains, which requires both snow and ice-climbing skills, was slow in the beginning.
“Although i took a step at a time. Then I started climbing in leaps and bounds,” she says.
“I went through some really hard failures I could have avoided if I had taken it step by step.”
However she had been climbing only three or four years when she began to think about climbing Everest.
Around 1981, after coming down Mt. McKinley, the tallest mountain in North America, she considered the possibility. Then she dismissed it.
But as she gazed at the mountain during her first trip to Nepal in 1982, the wheels were set in motion.
“It was right there,” she says. “That is when I knew I was going to climb Everest someday.”
Within the year 1987, Allison failed in an Everest attempt from the Tibetan side.
Retreating from severe snow storms and waylaid by high winds, she relied on her mental toughness to weather eight days in snow caves before pulling back.
“I did a lot of daydreaming,” says Allison about coping with the confinement.
“she was with three other people, and usually climbers have real intense personalities.
But I was able to calm myself. It was definitely mental.”
The use of visualization is a basic part of Allison’s design for making personal plans happen.
“When I stand at the base of a climb, I mentally prepare myself by following the route I’m going to take up to the top. Then coming back down.
Looking for objective dangers, possible problems. Just looking at the whole picture.”
Allison and 10 other members of the Northwest American Everest Expedition Team with a group of Sherpas (Tibetan support personnel) set up four base camps on the mountain.
Good weather was on Allison’s side this time. So was the considerably easier South Col route, which lacks the steepness Allison had confronted on the Direct North Face a year earlier.
Notwithstanding nothing prepared Allison for her confrontation with the Khundu Icefall.
Her team spent 10 days finding their way through the enormous crevasses and ice towers formed by a glacier–a moving mass of ice and snow.
Route-finding–without a compass but guided by a knowledge of how glaciers move and flow–was a matter trial and error.